Diesel Car Struggles To Start But Runs Fine

April 26, 2021

The car will start up first time may idle roughly with the needle bouncing for a little while. Occasionally when it restarts, the revs either go over 1000rpm, or drop to about 100rpm, then it kangaroos up the road for a bit (delayed reaction to the accelerator pedal).

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Another cause for both gas and diesel is plugged vents to the fuel tank, as it runs, if air can't replace the used fuel it will stop drawing fuel, that usually takes several minutes.

Diesel car struggles to start but runs fine. It just runs very wispy, in fact gasping is the word i want to use. Right after starting, it seems like it isn't getting fuel or air or something. These are the main two reasons why your car is not starting when it is cold.

In the morning or after prolongeg parking it is takes few good crank before it will start. Your ecu should throw a check engine light if there is no signal from the crankshaft or camshaft position sensors. It seems to crank fine but struggles to.

Once the car is started, i have no issues with the running of the engine or with the performance of the car but once i turn off the engine, it struggles to start again. When the car does not go over 3k rpm it has gone into limp mode and needs a computer/device to check the issue, fix and reset. I can have the pedal to the floor and it barely stays running.

There can be many reasons for a vehicle not starting in cold weather and some can be as simple as a weak battery that needs replacing. This will take you directly to the resources we offer to help you fix the problem. Once you get it running everything is fine.

Your car has a small purge valve called a purge solenoid in the evaporative emissions system that controls the venting of fumes from the fuel tank as these fumes build up inside, particularly when you are refueling the car with gas. Check for air in the fuel. It drives normal and once started i can start again and again no issue.

Your car is out of gas. Your engine normally starts just find when hot or when it has only sat for a few hours. Either way it's best to have an idea of what's wrong before you start the repair, or when you are taking your car in for repairs.

I've got a 1984 mercedes benz 300d that for the last two days doesn't want to start but, after a few touchy seconds, runs fine. It may not be reaching the injectors. Injector pump and or injectors or collapsing or leaking fuel lines when hot.there is also a slight chance that the valves are set too tight and when hot do not close properly but the chance of multiple cylinders to have the same problem is slim, if it is only one or two valves that leak the engine will still start.

Not sure about waxstats, will need to check. Depending on the outcome of that test you can move forward with the diagnosis you discover. This is an especially likely culprit if the engine dies shortly after it starts, and then is difficult to restart.

It is very likely your starter motor is not turning quickly enough. Other problem causing factors are a bit more complex but can be easily fixed or avoided. Diesel and gas engines run very similar fuelling systems, the difference being diesel systems run much greater fuel pressures and have a more control over the fuel quantity delivered.

Turn the ignition on and see how much fuel the pump is pumping, you shouldn't need much on a carb engine so it will be obvious if there is a problem. The only error the engine has shown is unknown error code 4 times however nothing relating to the difficulty of starting up. If your car is 10 year old or older, check your starter motor.

Once started and even when it is. Air is eminently compressible and if there is any of it between the fuel pump and the. One simple and quick way to test if the ignition switch is the culprit is to just insert the key and try to start the car.

When the car is cold, it starts fine. Some jobs are inexpensive such as a throttle bore service which will cost about $15.00 if done at home and it can go as high as $450.00 if a fuel pump is bad and replaced by a shop. Once started its all fine.

You can check your injectors, but if the car runs fine i would be surprised if this is your problem. But after sitting overnight, you find you have to crank and crank until the engine fires. The ecu computer is the brains of the operation and it determines how much fuel the engine needs by receiving readings from various sensors like oxygen (o2.

The evap system prevents fuel vapors from the fuel tank from escaping into the atmosphere. Get this code read if you can, as it may tell you the exact wire that is causing the issue. If the ecu can’t get a clear signal, the engine may fail to start or die immediately after starting.

You don't say if it runs for 10mins, 10 seconds etc etc, makes a difference but if it starts and runs good then quits in seconds, you're probably into a safety. Worn injectors not atomizing correctly. On my honda diesel which was a 2003 one it was the glow plugs which were an issue with the hard start in winter.

The only way i can get it to start again is to leave the engine turned off for a few minutes to let it cool down, then it will start. Leaks in the fuel lines or pump can allow air into the system. If the engine turns over but does not start the problem might be with the fuel supply:

I have had a garage look at it they cant seem. Mk4 golf 1996 tdi 1.9 (110) with 160k on the clock, absolute bugger. The problem goes something like this (on a 1969 to 1985 diesel).

This might seem like a silly reason why your vehicle will crank but not start but trust us. It may even start and then quit once or twice.

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